Sunday, 7 August 2016

The beauty of the the Flinders

Day 1 - Friday 22 July

I was awake before the alarm went off at 4am this morning.  You know how it is when you know you’ve got to be up early for something - sleep doesn’t come easily? But it made it easier to get up when it did go off.

We were all ready to go, so all that had to be done was a bite of breakfast and a coffee and we were on the road.  The weather wasn’t good to us.  It was pitch dark (well, it is at 4.45am in winter) and it was raining hard and blowing a gale.  But the traffic was good, so that was in our favour.  We were through the city in record time and soon heading up the Calder Highway towards Bendigo.  

Daylight came about 7.30am which made the atrocious weather easier to deal with and the radar showed it clearing up as we got further north.  We stopped for morning tea in Sea Lake and then continued up the road.  Doug was keen to do as many kilometres today as we could.

We seemed to reach Mildura early in the day; about 12pm, but then we had been on the road for seven hours by that time.  We turned off at Mildura and pointed the car west, heading for the South Australian border.  Right about then we turned into a headwind, which was to stay with us all the way to camp that night.  It made for ridiculous fuel economy when you’re towing a “house” behind you.

Lunch was had on the shores of Lake Cullulleraine, between Mildura and the border.  The wind was still blowing and the lake was very choppy, but it was a nice spot to take a break and eat a lovely hot pie from the little oven we have in the car.

On the road again, we crossed into South Australia, and before long we stopped in the reasonable-sized town of Renmark to stock up.  

Quarantine station at the SA border
We followed the wonderful Murray River along from Renmark, still fighting with the headwind, until we turned north at the little town of Morgan.  We had been going to stop for the night somewhere along the Murray, but Burra Gorge was only another 130km away, and we’d gained a half hour when we crossed into the SA time zone at the border, so we decided to make for there for the night.  It was make it a very big day, but would leave us free for a very easy day the next.

We arrived at World’s End Reserve outside Burra just about 4.30pm and just as the heavens opened and the wind really picked up.   We found as sheltered spot as we could, and disappeared inside the van.  I have never been as pleased with moving to a van from the camper trailer as I was tonight.  There was no set up - didn’t even put the jockey wheel or legs down - just got in.  It was a bad storm - lots of wind and rain - but we were safely tucked up in the van, dinner was had, heater was on and we sat a read with a glass of red.  It was a good night!!!

Day 2 - Saturday 23 July

The wind had died and the rain had cleared by the time we woke in the morning and it was a watery sunny sky overhead.  After a lovely breakfast of bacon rolls we didn’t have much to do before we were ready to head off.  Burra Gorge is a really lovely camp ground and one we’d recommend to anyone.  Clean, drop toilets, rubbish bins, fire rings and all free!

Watery sky at Burra Gorge
We drove the 20 or so kilometres into Burra and parked up by 9.15am.  It was still cold, but a walk around the beautiful historic mining town soon warmed us up.  As we were taking a look at the creek and feeding the ducks we chanced a look over in the caravan park and saw a familiar vehicle.  Ian and Sue, two friends from the Club were busy packing up the last of their things after camping there for the night.  They were also joining us on the Flinders Trip but had left Melbourne the weekend prior - enjoying a slow meander up to Peterborough.

We picked up a few supplies and enjoyed a chat with some locals, then filled up with fuel and made a move to travel the short drive northwards to Peterborough.  We were taking our time, as the plan was to meet the rest of the trip participants there at lunchtime.

Some of the old buildings in Burra
We got there around 12pm and met up with a few who’d arrived earlier and then heard that the rest of them weren't going to be arriving till 3.30pm.  I don’t know if you’ve been in small, country towns on a Saturday afternoon, but everything closes!  But we managed to fill in the time - we went and had a nice lunch at the pub, we walked up and down the main street, we chatted to the nice lady who’s garden I raided for some rosemary and we sat in the van and had a cuppa.  Soon the others arrived and we got organised to make our way out to camp.  We were 13 vehicles in total - 21 people - and we were staying out at a bush property outside Peterborough - Willangi Bush Camp.  It was a great spot; a wide open area with lovely drop toilet (really, it was lovely!!!).  We all got busy setting up and settled in for a night beside the fire.  The wind had got up again, and the rain wasn’t far away, and after two long days travelling, no one was late in bed that night.

Day 3 - Sunday 24 July

Sunday saw the first of our day drives on the Willangi property.  It was a cold day, with lots of wind and the occasional shower of rain.  We were in the cars early and took off across the tracks, snaking our way up and around the hills on the property.  The views from the top were wonderful and everyone was enjoying the morning.  

One of the tracks on the property

We finished the first loop by lunchtime, headed back to camp for a bite to eat and then headed out in the afternoon to travel the tracks on the other half of the property.  It was different terrain in the afternoon, with the “fat” 200 series having to inch through some of the gaps in the trees and lots of rock crawling up and down hill sides.



We were back at camp by late afternoon and after showers and dinners, we had a good fire going again that evening.  The weather still wasn’t playing fair and we again had lots of wind through the night.  But safely tucked up in the van, we didn’t really feel much of it.  Lucky for some eh?


Day 4 - Monday 25 July

Today was moving on day and everyone was up and about early (ish).  We enjoyed a coffee by the fire after breakfast and had everything ready to leave by 9am.  All 13 vehicles were on the move again heading out the track, back to the road and making for Peterborough.  Ian and Tracey had to return the key to the property owners, so while they did that, we all took advantage of the small window of time to attend to pressing jobs like filling water tanks, emptying loos, filling gas cylinders, and getting the all important take away coffees.

Perky, one of our number, had a loose wheel bearing after the previous days’ driving, so we all enjoyed a slightly longer-than-planned break while it was attended to.  By about 10.30am, we were ready and all on the road north.

It didn’t take long to reach the town of Hawker, where we stopped for a while so Murray could get a new tyre fitted.  He’d staked the side wall the day before on a particularly sharp rock and it was beyond repair.  We took the opportunity to top up with fuel and have morning tea.  
How many men does it take to change a tyre?
With a new tyre on Murray’s truck we all started off again, making for a lunch stop at the famous Parachilna Hotel.  Some decided on a pub-lunch while others had their picnics in the car park.  Parachilna Pub is famous for its “feral food” with a mixed grill plate of emu, kangaroo and camel and other wondrous roadkill delights.  We enjoyed a drink while the others had their meal, and then it was back on the road for the last part of our journey.

We were heading for the Warraweena Conservation Reserve in the northern Flinders Ranges and turned off the bitumen at Beltana and made the 34km trip on the rough track into the reserve, arriving at our camp beside the old mine ruins just in time for sundown drinks.  It was a beautiful spot right beside Sliding Rock Creek, which when in full flow would be wide and fast, but right now it was dry.  
Camps were set up and fire wood collected and we soon had a huge fire going and everyone was enjoying the fact that the wind had gone away.  Let’s hope it was good for the duration of the holiday now, as we think we’ve had our fair share.


Day 5 - Tuesday 26 July

Everyone was up and about early this morning, as our Fearless Leader had called for an 8.30am departure time.  The weather wasn’t as cold as we’d had it at Willangi, and everyone welcomed the milder temperatures and less wind.    We were pretty much bang on time when we left.  We all drove up to the homestead as we had to sign all the paperwork before heading off on our drive.  
Back in the cars, we headed out for one of the loop drives that are available on Warraweena.  Today we were doing the Mt Gill loop.  Although the tracks appeared on the various GPS screens that were available, it was really just following the creek beds along and through the gorges, clambering over rocks and dodging trees.

Heading for Mt Gill
We stopped for morning tea at Cockatoo Hut, which was a pretty well set-up campsite - even had it’s own shower enclosure.  There was plenty to see while stopped too - and lots of treasure to be found.  We were watching the clouds hanging over the tops of the hills and hoping that they’d blow away before we got up there.

We were back on our way again, and drove further along the rocky creek beds before turning off and starting the climb to the top of Mt Gill.  The going was fairly good; still rocky, but the views made it all worthwhile.  Mt Gill stands at 919m high, and you can get panoramic views in all directions from the top.  

View from the top.
It was a bit blowy up there and the wind was going through you rather than round you.  There was a few stones added to the cairn on the way also.


The drive back down from the top of Mt Gill saw us retrace our steps for a while, and we took advantage of a little gully to stop for lunch.  We managed to fit all the vehicles in the shelter of the gully and enjoyed lunch out of the back of the cars.  The sun even came out.

After lunch we took a sharp right turn and headed off to complete the loop we started.  It was a really lovely drive with beautiful views all round.  We took a detour up to the top of Lookout Hill.  With only room for two vehicles at a time at the top, we had to take it in shifts.  After that we drove on a bit further and decided to explore the nearby Natiburra Springs.  We drove in as far as we could, then parked the cars up and headed off up the creek bed on foot.  The group spread out as some were faster walkers than others.  A couple of intrepid explorers attempted to find the springs at the end of the creek, but after a lot of walking, came back unsuccessful.  

Chasing the head of Natiburra Springs
By this time, it was getting later in the afternoon, and the shadows were falling over the tracks and we all headed back to camp to get the fire lit for what was going to be another cold night.

Day 6 - Wednesday 27 July

Today was our official “rest” day and everybody had plans to do their own thing.  We thought that we would take the opportunity to re-visit the old ruins at Farina while we were up this far.  It was only about 130km up the road.  We headed off around 10am and drove back out the track, heading for the main road, but decided to take the back road up to Leigh Creek to see what it was like.  Our Fearless Leader was planning on taking that road on the day we move on from Warraweena, so we thought we’d see if it was ok for the van, and we decided it would be if we took our time.

We called in to Leigh Creek on the way up to Farina to get a coffee for morning tea.  It had been a while since we’d had a frothy coffee, but the only place to buy one was the servo and I’ve had better!  It’s sad to see the slow demise of the town of Leigh Creek.  Once a thriving mining town of over 5000 people, since the mine is in its’ death throws, the town has shrunk to only 500 people in just over a year.  Everywhere you see empty houses and shops.  The school only had about 12 kids in the playground and it had a strange, eery quiet about the place.

After coffees were had, we headed up the last 75km or so to Farina, most of it on well-made dirt roads.  We found Farina 7 years ago when we travelled up this way.  It was once a bustling railway town, on the Ghan line to Alice Springs.  There were houses, shops and businesses.  All that’s left now are the stone ruins and lots of rusty relics of machinery.  But Farina now has an active restoration society, and every year teams of volunteers spend the cooler winter months living there, lovingly restoring the old buildings - or at least stopping them deteriorating any further.  The old underground bakery has been restored and is now a working concern during those months, with loaves of bread being made and sold every day.  The volunteers had packed up and left for the year only the Saturday before our visit, so we were out of luck if we had wanted bread, but we enjoyed spending a couple of hours wandering around the town, reading all the stories of those who’d lived there and seeing the work that had been done since our last visit.

Old buildings at Farina



We drove the 130km back down to Warraweena, and arrived back at camp in the late afternoon, in time to shower and find out what everyone else had been up to that day. Tonight was party night - Wild West style.  Everyone got their finery on and got together for a long-table dinner.  There was some really great costumes and dinner was accompanied by the best country and western music.  It was a great night.


Day 7 - Thursday 28 July

It was time to pack up and move on to our next camp.  Everyone was up and about early and getting all their respective jobs done.  We were all packed up and heading off down the track, with the plan to regroup at Beltana.  Fuel and supplies were bought and water replenished in Leigh Creek and before too long, we were heading northwards, before turning east on the dirt towards Arkaroola.  

We spent the morning driving through the Gammon Ranges National Park, just blown away with how beautiful it was.  The road was in pretty good repair and the car and van were travelling really well.  We were last in the convoy of 13 vehicles, and were more than happy to hang back and stay out of everyone’s dust.  By late morning, we had made good time and passed through the indigenous community of Neppabunna.

We stopped for lunch at the campground at Italowie Gap.  What a beautiful spot!  Soaring red cliffs on one side and a lush, tree-lined creek bed on the other.  The campground was well appointed.  Neat, enclosed separate areas, clean drop toilets and plenty of shade trees.  The sky was a brilliant blue and the sun shone - what more could you ask for?  Well, I guess we were about to find out.

After lunch we started on the road again, turning south at Balcooloona and making our way back around the loop road down towards Blinman.  The road was not in a good condition - it had been closed by rain the previous week and was very cut up.  Going was slower than the morning, and drivers had to concentrate more.  Again, we travelled up the back of the group, and although we were probably travelling faster than we wanted to with the van, we were still falling quite far behind.  We could still make out directions on the radio, but had to listen hard.

By late afternoon, we had made it to the bitumen at Blinman and the speed could increase now.  We had about 50km or so to go to reach Willow Springs, our base for the next two days.  Doug was tired after the long drive and just wanted to get there.  Although the road was good now, we had the added obstacles of wildlife - emus and kangaroos were everywhere at the sides of the road and we just hoped they stayed there, cause there was no stopping!!!

We pulled into camp just as the sun was going down and thanked the caravan gods again for our quick set up.  We were sitting with a well-earned drink in 5 minutes.  After 300 or more kilometres on rough dirt today we were very pleased with how the van went - there was no dust inside and no apparent issues with anything outside - thanks Sunland!



Wood was quickly gathered from the nearby creek bed and a big fire was soon warming everyone.  The night sky was spectacular - stars going on forever, but it was going to be a cold one.


Day 8 - Friday 29 July

It was Skytrek today - an 80km 4WD track around the best of the Willow Springs property.  After a frosty-white start to the day, we left camp and moved up to the homestead at 8.30am, had our drivers briefing and were all on the move onto the start of the track by 9am.  Skytrek took us through creeks lined with river gums, in and around stands of native pines and black oaks, over blue bush plains, through rugged mountain valleys and finished with challenging climbs to the top of mountain ranges to be blown away the views.  



We stopped to view aboriginal etchings on rocks, and we had morning tea at an old workers hut.  The sun was out and it was a beautiful day and everyone was enjoying the drive.  The owners of Willow Springs, Brendan and Carmel, have put a lot of work into making the trek one of the best in the Flinders.  There’s plenty to see along the way and great, detailed track notes to refer to.  


Lunch in a dry creek bed
Aboriginal ochre pits
As this was going to be our last night together as a group, Tracey had arranged with Carmel for dinner to be provided up at the homestead; a sort of farewell meal.  It was nice to be able to spend our last night together this way. 



Another cold night was ahead and another great fire was lit, but as those returning home the next day had a very early start, nobody was very late in bed.  We had the luxury of another week ahead of us!


Day 9 - Saturday 30 July

There was noises happening in camp from first light and those who were leaving were up getting the last of the packing up done.  It wasn’t quite as cold as the previous morning, but it was pretty close.  We got a small fire going to keep us warm while we watched as campers were folded, tents stowed away and engines warmed up.  They were aiming to be away by 8am, but in fact were ready and off by 7.45am.  It was sad to say goodbye to them all and we wished them safe travels for their two day journey back to Melbourne.

Our plans were to do very little today, as we’d had a pretty “full-on” week.  We were going to slowly get organised and make the “long” journey, 20km down the road to Wilpena Pound, where we were going to spend a couple of days.  

We were ready quite quickly and decided to take a walk down to the ruins that Pete had found the day before.  We didn’t even know they were there, but only a couple of kilometres walk over the paddocks brought us to the ruins of the Appealina Station.  Along the banks of a tree-lined creek were a series of stone buildings with the story of the Wills family who lived and worked there.  It was a fascinating story filled with corruption and intrigue and the buildings gave you a real understanding of what life would have been like for Joseph Wills and his wife Sarah as they tried to make a living farming here while fighting the ruthless mining companies who were determined to take his land.  For me, this was one of the highlights of the trip.

Part of the extensive Appelina ruins
Back at camp, we hitched up and headed back up the track for the road, turned right and made the short drive down to Wilpena.  Today was going to be a down day - we settled into our site, and I got to work doing some washing (love the little machine in the van) and then we went for a walk and spent the rest of the afternoon sitting in the sun catching up with reading and blogging.  We even walked up to the bar for a drink later in the afternoon.  Might as well since we were back in civilisation.

Sue and Ian had decided to spend a few days there too, so it was nice to have a quiet night by a little campfire, before turning in.  Gee it’s hard work doing not very much!


Day 10 - Sunday 31 July

It was a slow breakfast as we got moving today - we were heading off for a drive through some of the beautiful gorges of the central Flinders.  We left around 9am and headed out back to the main road, turning left and driving north for a short distance and then turning left again onto the Bunyeroo Gorge trail - this road traverses the Heysen Range and heads in the direction of Lake Torrens.  It was beautiful scenery that met us as we followed along through the Bunyeroo Valley, stopping to look at lookouts along the way.  There was plenty to look at, believe me, as we were greeted with spectacular views of the Pound Range.   While we drove, we also took mental notes as we passed campsites, as we knew we’d be back this way again.

Bunyeroo Valley
Bunyeroo Gorge itself was beautiful; the road was shady and treed as we drove through the creek bed.  It was the most water we’d seen flowing all trip.  Before too long we came to a T intersection at the end of the road and turned onto the Brachina Gorge trail.  This is truly a fantastic sight and completely different terrain from that we’d just driven through.  The ‘Corridors through Time’ Geological Trail has been established through this Gorge which gives details of the geological history of the area. 

Bunyeroo Gorge
We travelled west until we reached the edge of the national park, then turned around and headed back through Brachina Gorge again because it was so wonderful we wanted to do see it again.  Well, it was fantastic, and we stopped many times to try and do justice with photographs, but we also wanted to include the side road through the Aroona Valley in our day out.

The beautiful Brachina Gorge
The Aroona Valley drives along the creek, beside the wonderful ABC Range with its spectacular peaks on our left and we soon travelled the 6km to reach the end of the valley where the ruins of the old Aroona Homestead, built in the 1850”s, serves as a reminder of the difficult early years of European settlement.  It was a lovely spot to stop for lunch, which we enjoyed on a picnic table in the sun.  There’s a nice quiet campground here too, so that went into the memory bank too.

The view from the hut at Aroona
After lunch we drove back to the Brachina Gorge road, and then completed the rest of the loop drive to arrive back at camp by 3pm.  
We still wanted to walk out to the Wills homestead inside Wilpena Pound and had seen the weather forecast for the next day, so decided to do the walk in the afternoon after we got back.  We grabbed our gear, making sure we had water and wet weather gear in our back pack and were soon on our way out the track into the centre of the Pound.  It was an easy walk, but it was late in the day, and the sky was getting greyer, so we stepped it out and covered the distance in a reasonably quick time.  It probably took us an hour each way.

There’s really good interpretive signs at the homestead which give an informative history of the homestead and the family that built it and tried so hard to make a life there.  They were certainly at the mercy of the weather, both droughts and floods and in the end, it all proved too hard.  We climbed up to the lookout above the homestead to get a great view of the inside of the Pound, over the tree tops.  You get an idea of the sheer size and scale of this wonderful, natural landmark from up here.  

Wills homestead inside Wilpena Pound
The sky looked ominous and we felt a few splashes of rain, so we thought it would be a good idea of make a start back to camp.  Staying at the caravan park in Wilpena Pound meant that we were able to take advantage of the on-site bar, so we stopped in there for a drink on our way back to the van.  By the time we got back, Ian and Sue had got the fire going so another quiet night was spent chatting about the days’ activities, before we headed off for an early night.
Inside the Pound

Day 11 - Monday 1 August

We were packed up and on our way today.  The weather forecast wasn’t great so we decided it would be a good day to spend in the car travelling.  We pulled out of Wilpena Pound just after 9.30am, just as a few spots of rain hit the windscreen.  

Hawker was our first stop for the day, as we decided to take a quick look around town.  We took in the gallery and had a walk around the old streets, but the rain had set in in earnest now so we jumped back in the car and kept going.

We reached Quorn and had a walk around the town, but it was done by sheltering from the weather in awnings and shop doorways.  We found the supermarket and took the opportunity to stock up on supplies before treating ourselves to a lovely lunch from a nice organic cafe.

It was still raining after lunch as we got back in the car and headed down to the highway that runs along the Spencer Gulf from Port Augusta.  We were heading for the small town of Crystal Brook where we thought we’d spend the night.  It was a case of looking at the map and thinking “Hmm, we haven’t been that way before.”  Crystal Brook is a lovely little town with a bustling main street.  The weather had cleared up a bit and we turned our thoughts to finding somewhere to camp and out came Wikicamps and quite by accident we stumbled on Bowman Park, just 5km out of town.

Bowman Park is a reserve run by a local town committee and is offering free camping with good facilities in a lovely garden setting with old historic buildings and great walking trails.  There was wonderful birdlife and a resident peacock who came by to say hello.  We were surprised to find that there was only one other van in the camping area and quickly set up and relaxed after a day on the road.

After dinner we decided to use the TV in the van (not something we do very often) and settled in to watch a DVD with the heater on - a bit of luxury, I can tell you.  


Day 12 - Tuesday 2 August

The morning was sunny and bright after all the rain the day before.  We took our time over breakfast and then decided to take a walk along one of the walking trails and a look around the walled garden.  It had been a lovely homestead once, and then had had several re-births as different business over the years, including a school camp, and now was a bit sad and run down, but still a great place to spend the night.

Bowman Park
It was a minimal pack up, as we hadn’t unhooked the van the night before, so it was just a matter of heading back to town and then continuing on our adventure-drive back to Melbourne.  We took another look at the map and decided to head down through the Clare Valley to the Murray River.  We stopped in Clare and then drove slowly down to Morgan where we stopped in to the tourist information centre to chat to the lovely ladies there about finding some camping along the river.

That was where our plans changed - apparently South Australia had had a big dump of rain the day before and all the access tracks in to the river had turned to sticky river mud - so camping along the banks of the Murray for a few days was no longer an option.  So, back to the maps and after a bit of deliberation, we decided to take the ferry across the Murray at Morgan.

Boarding the ferry
Crossing the Murray at Morgan
We decided to head for the town of Berri where we pulled into probably the cleanest, tidiest, neatest caravan park we have ever seen.  After our time in the bush in the Flinders, we now had lush green grass under our feet.

The weather was not the greatest, but I’d also seen it a lot worse, so we unrolled the awning and settled in for a sunset drink on the banks of the Murray at Berri.  Not exactly what we had in mind, but we were on holidays - what did it matter?


Day 13 - Wednesday 3 August

We decided this was going to be a down-day.  One of those days where we did very little and caught our breath.  The problem with a two-week touring holiday is that you’re on the go fairly constantly.  After a second cup of coffee, we decided to take a wander into town to see what was on offer.  

Berri is a lovely little town with a good range of shops and services.  We got a few supplies at the local supermarket and then took a walk up to the watertower lookout on the top of the hill.  It really put the riverland into perspective to see the Murray snaking its way as far as you could see.  What a fabulous area this is?



After walking back down the hill, we decided to grab a bite of lunch at the cafe on the riverbank.  We ordered and our meal was delivered by a big, burly, red-headed Scotsman from Dundee.  He was a chatty man and we spent a pleasant hour or so with him and his wife before heading back to the van to sit in the afternoon sun and read.  We took this opportunity, as we had lots of time, to slow-cook at piece of saltbush lamb we’d bought in Burra the week before.  This was enjoyed for dinner with a nice bottle of red before we settled in with a DVD.  Ah, this is the camping life!!!


Day 14 - Thursday 4 August

Today we decided to go exploring in the area.  There’s so much to see and do that we easily filled a day.  After another late start, we headed back west towards Barmera, and we stopped in to visit Aggie’s fruit and veg stand, just outside town.  What a place!  The stand was absolutely laden with oranges, all sorts of other citrus, pumpkins and avocados.  And Aggie, the farmer, likes a bit of a chat.  We heard all about the farm, and her family and farming in the area in general and left with arms full of bags of fruit and veg.  I hope it all keeps, cause we’ve got lots!!!

Aggie's stall
We then kept heading west and reached the enormous concern that is Berri Estates winery.  It is renowned to be the largest winery in the southern hemisphere, with row upon row of huge stainless steel vats and miles of pipework traveling around the vats and over the road.  We stopped in to their cellar door (well, it was almost morning tea time!!) to try some of their wares.  Inside, as well as the Berri Estate label, were rows of bottles with labels we recognised and many we’d had before.  We just didn’t realise that they  were all made here.  It is a huge operation and although the wines are very nice, you don’t get the great feeling you get when visiting a little, family winery.  This multinational mammoth was only after profit.

The huge Berri Estates
So to balance that, we then went to the complete other end of the scale and visited a very small, back-block winery called 919.  It is run by a husband and wife team who run the tiny organic vineyard themselves and we were shown around and spent a lovely hour of so discussing the virtues of their very nice shiraz.

919 Cellar Door
We continued west and retraced our steps of earlier days, to take in the Wetlands Centre at Banrock Station, at Kingston on the Murray.  As well as great food and wine at the cellar door, Banrock Station have a commitment to the environment and their centre was granted Ramsar status in 2002, recognising the work it does to protect endangered and migratory birdlife.  We had lunch while taking in the views, and then spent a few hours walking the trails through the wetlands.  Not a lot of birdlife to be seen, but the trails were beautiful. 

Banrock Station Wetlands


We capped off the day visiting a couple of the locks on the Murray on the way home to see how this mighty river is controlled and held back to suit the needs of the rural and agricultural communities.




Day 15 - Friday 5 August

It was moving-on day, so we were up and organised fairly quickly and were soon on the road, heading in a vague direction towards Melbourne.  After referring to our trusty maps, we decided on a road we hadn’t taken before, and headed down through Loxton to Pinnaroo.  We stopped for morning tea in this sleepy little town and tried to decide where to head next.  

We had another night on the road before we were to be home, so an old faithful favourite campsite beckoned, and we headed for the banks of the lake at Hopetoun.  We arrived mid-afternoon, and set up in a lovely sunny spot.  

By the lake at Hopetoun
We’ve visited Hopetoun many times over the years, and always enjoyed the hospitality the little town shows us.  There’s a good supermarket and a few specialty shops, where you can get most things you’re looking for.  There used to be two pubs, but the older one closed down a few years back and now there’s only the one.  It was always good for a counter-meal, but this time, we felt let down.  The meal we had was served in the main bar, not the dining room as it used to be, and we just felt they had stopped trying.  Sad to say, but we won’t be back.
The lake is a different thing though.  The camping there is lovely, with toilets and showers on one side, together with a few powered sites (for a fee).  But you can camp anywhere around the perimeter of the lake for free.  We got back to camp after dinner and lit a little fire and settled in for our last night on the road for now.


Day 16 - Saturday 6 August

There’s not much to say about this day.  That’s because we were going home.  Don’t get me wrong, I love my family and my home, but I’m always sad to be ending a journey.  We did however, stop on the way to take in the new silo art that had been painted on the grain silos at the little town of Brim.  They're just beautiful, and I believe there's more planned for other areas.

Silo art at Brim
Then onwards towards home and back to reality.  Some day there’ll be a time when the journey won’t end, but for now, we started the car and headed for Belgrave.



Thursday, 24 September 2015

A week on Fraser Island

Fraser Island Trip - 4th - 18th September 2015

This is a trip report written by various members of the Dandenong Ranges 4WD Club for our club magazine.  Doug and I were the Trip Leaders for this two week trip.

Day 1 - Friday 4th September

Many of the group that were going on the Fraser Island trip had snuck off early.  The Nankivells left a week early and stopped in at the "Ultimate campers" depot, the Fullards headed straight for the Gold Coast and Wayne also left a week early because he could!   The Sloans and Rob and Naomi technically left on the same day but they were making a bee line for John Porrit's place.
Doug and Jeannie, Andre and Catherine, Darren, Alison and Jaimie, Gwendolen and I met at Yarra Glen at 12:30pm and took scenic route from Merton to Euroa and then straight through Euroa to Shepparton, it's a nice drive that way.  We Stopped between Merton and Euroa for firewood.  Got heaps and put it on the Ramsay's and Green's roof racks.  
It wasn't a big day and we were at camp at Apex beach on the Murray River in Tocumwal by 4:30.    I'd spoken with the Sloans and they told me that at 3:30pm they were travelling through Coonabarrabran.  They had started at 3am that morning and were hoping to make Tamwoth that night.  Peter and Tori arrived at Tocumwal later that night and even later, The Robinsons arrived as we were going to bed.
I didn't hear a lot... A little bit of noise that I thought might be a possum maybe, but I put my earplugs in.... And apparently missed all the excitement of the Mutant rampaging koalas through the camp that night.

Campsite on the Murray at Tocumwal


Day 2 - Saturday 5th September

This morning we all woke up at about 7:00am to be packed up and gone by 8:00am. We left camp and headed into Tocumwal for coffee and a toilet break. 

Big Murray Cod at Tocumwal

We were back on the road by 8:20am to head to Narrandera for some morning tea. We then drove for another few hours to Forbes for lunch break and back on the road for a couple hours to Narrabri for a good feed at the pub and discussion on where to camp. We finally figured out where to camp and back on the road we went. We ended up staying at the Moree Showgrounds. Some of us stood around our "fire" (red bucket and torch) as we finished the day with a drink.


Day 3 - Sunday 6th September

We had an early start today, 7.00 am departure, to avoid a repeat of yesterday and to catch the shops in Gympie. A very good run to Goondiwindi for a fuel stop. Lunch was at Goomeri then on to Gympie by about 2.30 for last shopping and fuel. While getting fuel three other vehicles, who had traveled to a different schedule, passed us on the way to Inskip point.
All of us now, except the Fullards, gathered at Inskip point we had the now famous red bucket fire for the night.

Inskip Point camping

Day 4 - Monday 7th September

We were all packed up and departed our group site at Dorrigo, Inskip Point at 8am as scheduled.
Dave and Sheree joined us in the queue waiting for the barge and our group was complete.

While waiting we were entertained by a mother and daughter wrestling tournament- skill defeated enthusiasm over several rounds. Meanwhile John snatched a bogged Toyota towing a Jayco "outback eagle" and advice regarding tyre pressures was given.

It took three crossings at 8.20, 8.40 and 9.05 for us all to get onto the island as the tour busses were given priority.

By 9.15am our party of twelve vehicles, five towing campers were enjoying the lovely 75 km drive along the beach to our camp. We mostly travelled between 60 - 80 kmph, slowing to 40kmh when required past busy tourist hot spots. We saw our first dingo, passed lots of fishermen, people gathering pippies and worms for bait, a group of vintage toyotas, three planes parked on the "air strip", some tourist busses and the Maheno wreck. There were several groups camping on the edge of the beach braving the blustery winds.





We arrived at Dundubara camp at 10.45 and after setting up all soaked up the atmosphere. The camp area was fenced off to keep dingoes out and we were in quiet area set aside for groups. There were plenty of water taps and tables with bench seats and it was only a short to the amenities block. $1 purchased a quick shower.  

After lunch a few tried fishing but most just relaxed and socialised.  That evening we nominated Tori as  fire warden concerned that we not burn our allocated four bags of wood too quickly. We had plenty of wood left however as we all retired early after a few days hard travelling for many.

Every-one was so happy to be on Fraser Island at last and eager to start exploring.

Day 5 - Tuesday 8th September

We woke to a beautiful morning with a temperature of about 23◦C. A slow start to the day saw us heading out of camp and down the beach at 9:45am. A couple of kilometres down the beach we came across about 150 people fishing off the beach. We could see that this popular spot was seeing good results with many fish on the lines. 

We turned right off the beach at Woralie Road and headed inland. The track was like a roller coaster in parts, sand of course. 

10:15am saw us stop at Knifeblade sand blow for a look at this sand hill created by nature due to sand blowing in from the coast. 

Knifeblade Sand Blow

After a pleasant stroll to the lookout, we were back in the cars and on our way towards Lake Allom through the tropical tree canopy.

We had morning tea at the lake. As we watched and counted the numerous turtles who came to entertain us at the viewing platform, Bella and Jamie ventured into the water and the turtles disappeared quickly. 

Bella and the turtles

Morning tea break was over at 11:40am and we were on the road again, heading for Happy Valley 

Lunch was enjoyed by all at Happy Valley as we ate under the shade of the local trees and then most had a refreshing ice cream from the shop. During lunch, Rob tried his hand at getting a coconut out of a tree using his sand flag. 

Lunch was over by 2:00pm and we were back on the beach heading for Eli creek as the weather was fine and some were ready for a swim.

At Eli creek, some ventured into the crystal clear water following out towards the sea. Others enjoyed this peaceful area (only a few tourists).



Pete enjoying the water

We all moved on back up the beach towards camp at around 3:15pm with some stopping for photos at the ship wreck of the Maheno.

The wreck of the Maheno

With everyone back at camp, there was time for drink, nibbles, playing and checking over the vehicles, where needed. A campfire ended a wonderful day.

Day 6 - Wednesday 9th September

We all woke up at our own time and had breakfast before we had to go. We all grouped up on the beach to make our way to Sandy Cape lighthouse. Which we stopped for morning tea at Ngkala Rocks due to a hold up by all the cars getting stuck on the track. 

If you can't go through.....
And you can't go around.......

So we had to go over the rocks which was pretty cool while we were packing up from morning tea 2 locals drove there cars into the ocean to get around the rocks and they thought we were all crazy for going over the rocks then we started to make our way to the lighthouse. 

You go over!!!!

We all stopped and it was only Doug, Pete, Jaime and myself that went for a walk up to the top. When we got to the top there was a couple that had just got engaged at the lighthouse. We took some photos and had a little rest then we walked on back down as Pete went for a look around as we where waiting for Pete we decided to have lunch. Once we finished lunch we sat around waiting for Pete he took forever!!! 

Lighthouse at Sandy Cape



When Pete got back we hopped in the car and headed back. We stopped at Orchid Beach for an ice-cream and some others decided to stay for a beer. I hopped in to the Greens car and they took me to Champaign Pools, where Jaime and I went for a swim. John took us up to the ledge and we waited for the next wave to come and take us under. When the next wave came it took us and we almost drowned if it wasn't for John and David who saved us. We stayed in the pools for a little while longer hanging on to Pete when the waves came close to us. Then I hopped back in the car with the Greens and we headed back to camp. 

Champagne Pools

Jaime and I went straight to the showers to wash out all the salt water. We all set up our tables as we were having a Hawaiian long table night where we all had to get dressed up in Hawaiian clothes. 



We all got our tea and sat down to eat, once we all finished we all removed our tables so we could play games we let Doug and Jeannie sit there a little longer cause it was their anniversary. Once we moved their table we set up for the games which where a hula hoop game a coconut game and a tug of war to finish it off.  The adults had shots for prizes and kids got lollies we all had a good time and a good laugh. Everybody went back to the fire and went to bed at their own time.


Day 7 - Thursday 10th September

Today was a free day with everyone wandering off in different directions to explore the island.

Our fearless leaders left us for Waddy Point.

Waddy Point

John & Robyn organised a drive to Kingfisher Bay, Mangrove Swamp, The Pinnacles, Red Canyon & Happy Valley. Gillian, Gwen, Peter, Tori, Andre, Katherine, Keith, Jiang & Scott decided to join the trip.

Cathedral Beach was another destination to be explored! Ian, Tracey, Bella, Jamie, Rob, Naomi, Peter, Karen & Wayne.

Darren, Allison, David and I decided to try surf fishing again! Unfortunately the weather was against us.  After an hour or so we decided to head back to camp and enjoy the peace. 

As the afternoon went by everyone started to arrive back.  Bella had caught 2 whiting after a fishing stop on the way back to camp, which John cooked with Bella and Jamie’s help. 

Day 8 - Friday 11th September

Friday was a full day which started off with a drive down south towards Dilli Village, where we set out for Lake Boomanjin (the world’s largest perched lake) and Lake Birrabeen before heading to Central Station’s Wanggoolba Creek and Rainforest.  

Boardwalk at Central Station

Massive trees with stags growing all the way up their trunks, dense rainforest canopy and Relic Ferns were all on view as we walked the boardwalk circuit – very peaceful and a highlight of the trip for some of us.



Onwards from there we headed to Lake McKenzie which was stunning – crystal clear blue water with white sandy beach – most of us couldn’t resist wading a little, but Scotty had a ball swimming, and Jamie and Bella both dragged each other in.

Lake McKenzie

From here the group split into two for a little bit with John and Robyn, Andre and Kathy, Keith and Jiang (and Scotty!), Pete, Tori, Gill and Gwen heading to Eurong for a squiz, and Jeannie and Doug, Ian and Tracey, Rob and Naomi, Pete and Karen, Wayne, Allison, Darren and Jamie all headed to Kingfisher Bay.  At this point Dave and Sheree left the trip headed for the mainland.

We regrouped at the Lake Wabby Lookout, overlooking the Hammerstone Sandblow and Lake Wabby – the island’s deepest lake.  The view was impressive, but we’d been spoilt by the rainforest and Lake McKenzie by this stage.  So, from here we all headed back up the beach to camp.  Wayne’s vehicle was playing up and he and Rob ended up doing an after dark dash back onto the beach to try to find Wayne’s phone which was thought lost after earlier stopping on the beach to check the engine, with no success… not to worry, it turned up the next morning under his floor mat!


Day 9 - Saturday 12th September

It was a morning of activity today.  Some of the group (Gill and Gwen and Andre and Catherine) were packing up camp and starting the long journey back home and others were making preparations for leaving the next day.  The weather was patchy - lovely sunshine, with sometimes the threat of showers, but the temperature was warm.  The plan for today was to enjoy morning tea at the bakery at Eurong, the largest settlement on the island, before driving inland to visit the Valley of the Giants.  

Those who were ready early took off for the bakery and spent a lovely hour sitting in the sun or browsing the shops there, and the rest drove the hour down the beach to meet them later.

Access to the Valley of the Giants meant an hour or so of winding through the sandy inland tracks before slowly descending into the thick, dark rainforest in the centre of the island.  The temperature dropped four degrees from the road to the forest floor.

Road to the Valley of the Giants

It was an amazing place; a very narrow track that snaked its way under the canopy of the forest giants, tallow wood, satinay, kauri pine, brush box, some up to 1000 years old and towering up to 70m above our heads. It was comforting to know that, since Fraser Island was declared a world heritage area, they may well be there in another 1000 years although how those gigantic trees remain standing with their roots in only sand is a mystery.

Another hours’ drive out again through more open woodland brought us to Lake Garawongera for our lunch stop.  This perched freshwater lake is not as touristy as some of the others here and was a nice place to stop.

From here it was a short drive back up the beach to camp where we settled in for our last night on the island and had a great fire with the last of our carefully rationed wood.



Day 10 - Sunday 13th September

Our last day arrived and there was lots of activity in camp in the morning as camps were packed up and vehicles crammed full again.  The group was splitting today, and some were keen to get on the road early as they had a long way to go.  Rob & Naomi, John & Robyn and the Sloans all took their chances and headed off to the barge early, risking the high tide.  The rest of us had a more leisurely pack up before setting off to make the 80km journey down the beach.  The tide was still high and travel was a mix of hard packed sand and soft stuff, depending on the obstacles.

Thankfully we didn’t have to wait long to get onto the barge and the crossing was quick.  


Before we knew it, we were in Rainbow Beach queuing to take advantage of the under-body wash facilities there.  We enjoyed a great lunch of fresh fish and chips in the park at Rainbown Beach before parting ways again - the Greens and Wayne heading the Brisbane (Wayne needed to get his alternator fixed), and the rest of us making our way back through Gympie and heading for the Glasshouse Mountains for the night.

We found an “interesting” place to camp for the night - a Cobb and Co museum which allows camping on it’s property.  The caretaker had obviously enjoyed a few cold ones before we arrived, but the camp ground was pleasant and green, the scenery was stunning and we all enjoyed a good shower.  Pete and Tori took off the for the night to visit near-by relatives, and the rest of us enjoyed a quiet night round the fire.

Day 11 - Monday 14th September

After an early start (thanks to the quarry noise coming from next door!!), our little group was on the road again, but getting smaller again as the Robinsons were taking off today to make for the Gold Coast.  So Pete & Tori, the Nanks and us joined the traffic on the freeway and made our way around Brisbane, past the Gold Coast and into NSW, arriving at Byron Bay by late morning.

We spent about three hours in town, exploring the amazing array of shops, interesting eateries, taking in the great beach and the “different” people and making the trek up to Cape Byron and the lighthouse.  The Fullards met up with us again and joined us at Byron where we ticked off the most easterly point of Australia.

Lighthouse at Cape Byron - the most easterly point on the mainland

We left town and headed down the coast, through Ballina (ticked off the “Big Prawn”) and made our way to Lake Arragan campground in the Yuraygir National Park.  Although the campground was busy, we managed to get a great spot; sheltered behind a little rise, but right on the edge of the beach.  What a fabulous place.  We had had a bit of a re-think about the itinerary, and decided to make the most of the great weather we were getting up north, and not head south for another couple of days, so we settled in to Yuraygir for a day or two.



Day 12 - Tuesday 15th September

It was a relaxed day today with very little done.  The Fullards packed up and decided to head further south, but the rest of us decided to stay put and enjoy the great scenery and wonderful weather.  After a slow start and leisurely breakfast, we thought we ought to get a bit of exercise and took the steps down to the beach and walked the 4.5km along to the little town of Brooms Head.  
It certainly was a little town, with just a few holiday houses, a small caravan park and a shop that sells everything, including quite respectable coffee.  So we stopped for a cuppa in the sun before making the walk home again to camp.

The afternoon was spent relaxing - some read, some slept, some went to explore nearby Lake Arragan and we were all pleased when the Greens arrived to join us after spending a couple of days in Brisbane.  It was getting to be a pattern now, but we all enjoyed a great night around the fire before hitting the sack early.


Day 13 - Wednesday 16th September

It was hard but we decided to pack up and leave Yuraygir today.  The weather forecast showed a change coming so we thought we’d try and outrun it and head further south.  The Nanks were leaving us today to head south-west, making their way to be in Echuca by Friday, so they were up and on the road really early.  The rest of us were ready to get on the road by 9am-ish.

We headed back through Maclean and through Grafton, heading down the coast to Coffs Harbour where we stopped for morning tea at the Big Banana.  

Tori enjoying her banana split
This was a special request from Tori, but secretly we all enjoyed the visit, having banana splits, banana bread, banana muffins and more for morning tea!  After morning tea we headed down for a walk out onto the jetty.  




The weather had taken a turn for the worst and we got showers on and off all morning, but managed to avoid the worst.

We got back on the road, heading south again, this time making for a campsite that Darren and Allie recommended near Macksville.  But first there was a stop to be made at a tin shed at the side of the road near Nambucca Heads that sells the freshest, lovely Sydney Rock Oysters.  The guys had orders for 200 dozen oysters for Sydney restaurants, but were kind enough to sell us a couple of dozen.  So after a quick stop in Macksville for some supplies, we headed to camp.  Again, it was busy, but we found a great spot.  The first order of business was for all hands to run to a pile of firewood that had just been delivered, and join in the other campers grabbing their share.  It’s amazing to see a team in action - we were going to have a great fire that night!!!



We had a great afternoon in camp - we got the fishing rods out (and Allie was successful!) and Pete got his inflatable kayak out and took a ride up the river to explore the other bank.  The evening was capped off with a serving of Oysters Kilpatrick, cooked to perfection and enjoyed by all the oyster lovers in front of that big fire!



Day 14 - Thursday 17th September

We were lucky to get packed up this morning just as the sky darkened and the rain clouds rolled in.  It was a slow drive down through the huge project of the Pacific Hwy duplication, but it didn’t hold us up too long.  We pulled off the highway into the small, and largely unattractive town of Coopernook for morning tea before continuing.  Just around Taree we were met with an amazing thunderstorm, complete with lightening and hail.  It got so bad at one stage that we pulled off the road to wait for a while as we couldn’t see in front of ourselves.

Lunch was a pretty soggy affair.  We stopped in a servo just off the highway and made the best of a shelter in the carpark.  The Greens were trying to decide what to do - whether to cut their losses and head for friends in Canberra or whether to continue with us to the Hawksbury, to meet up again with the Fullards.  The forecast looked promising so the decision was made - the Hawksbury and Patonga beach it was.

We pulled into the small council caravan park mid-afternoon, in the watery sunshine, and it was great to see Sheree and Dave waiting for us.  There were a few rain showers while we were setting up, but nothing too drastic.  And the locals had recommended the pub for a counter tea for our last night of our holiday together - so after much needed showers, we headed off for a great dinner.  The rain came on again for our walk back to camp, but it’s amazing how comfortable you can be all squeezed under an awning.

The view from our campsite at Patonga

Day 15 - Friday 18th September

Our last morning was another showery one, but we managed to get packed up reasonably dry and the Fullards, Pete and Tori and us left just after 8am as we faced a long drive ahead to get back to Melbourne.  The Greens had a bit more time up their sleeve as they were only going as far as Canberra today, so their pack up was a bit slower.  We said our farewells and headed for Sydney, with the agreement that we would probably get separated, so we’d meet at McDonalds in Goulburn for morning tea.

Who knew there were three Maccas in Goulburn??  But we eventually found each other at the one beside the Big Merino (yay - Tori got to tick off another “big thing”).  Dave and Sheree had decided to head to relatives in Wangaratta that night, so the group was now down to 2 and Pete and Tori and us headed for Melbourne.  We stopped for lunch in Tarcutta and then started on the last leg.  Just north of Seymour we suddenly lost a front tyre and it was a scary moment trying to keep the car and camper on the road, but thankfully we managed.  Pete helped Doug change the wheel and we were on the road again.  



Pete and Tori took the road down through Seymour and Yea while we decided to head for the city so we said our goodbyes and took our separate roads.  Not long before we reached the outskirts of the city we were passed by a familiar red GU as Wayne made his way home too.  He’d spent some time in Brisbane before making his way home.  

This is the end of our Fraser Island story.  We had such a great time, and really hope that everyone who came along to share it with us did too.  We spent so long looking forward to this trip, and before we knew it, the time was gone.  So that only means one thing - we’ll have to think of somewhere to go next year.