The day we left Fitzroy Crossing to travel through to Derby to catch our flight was just like any other morning. We got up, had coffee and breakfast and set about a relaxed pack up. But after spending time in a few different caravan parks (not our thing usually) on this trip, I’ve decided we’ve got to get into the way of things. The correct attack plan is to be awake before daylight, and dressed, fed, packed up and be ready to hit the road about 6.30am!! Honestly, I’m not sure where they go to at that time of the day, but by 7.30am, the caravan park was nearly empty and we were sitting there, drinking our coffee, wondering what we were doing wrong.
So… we were on the road by 9.30am and headed the two hundred
and something kilometres to Derby. We
got there around lunch time, enjoyed a counter meal in the pub and then went to
the arranged place to leave our camper and car for the night. Making sure it was all tucked up nicely, we
waited to be picked up for our big adventure.
The booking instructions had said that we were to take as
little luggage as possible (just a small backpack – limit 5kg) and it was to
include a change of clothes, bathers and towel, necessary toiletries and camera,
and it was BYO alcohol. So, needless to
say, ours were a “tad” overweight, by the time we got the essentials in. We were a bit relieved to find that the most
of the other people waiting to get collected at the same spot were thinking the
same thing - “I hope they don’t weigh my bag!!!”. Never mind, it will weigh less on the return
flight.
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| Our carriage awaits |
We were collected on time, and taken to the Derby
Airport. I use the term “airport”
loosely, but, planes did land there. Our
seaplanes arrived and we were carefully seated on the plane so as to balance
out body weights to make for a comfortable flight. The pilot did it all by eye – brave soul. The
flight took about 30 minutes to arrive in Talbot Bay, in the very north of the
Kimberley region, an area that can only be reached by plane or boat. The landing on water was a new one for me,
but it was effortless, and we sailed to a stop by the pontoon, and quickly got
out and collected our bags. In the
middle of this beautiful environment, away from any other living souls, we had
this wonderful place to ourselves.
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| First sight of the falls |
The accommodation was made up of a houseboat, several pontoons and jetties, and several jet boats. It made for a great space, which we could move around and spend time in as we saw fit. There were bar areas, 10 cabins, a dining area, swimming cage, and helicopter pad.
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| Our home for the night |
We were whisked away pretty quickly when we first arrived,
to board a jet boat, to speed out to see what we’d came for – the Horizontal
Falls. The tide was on the way in, and
we had to make the most of it before dark.
The jet boats flew around the bends to the falls, and then for about 20
minutes or so, we had fun riding up and down the water as we moved between the
bays.
The falls are created by the huge tides of the Kimberley,
being forced through a series of gaps in the McLarty Range. The gaps are quite small, one being 20 metres
across and the second being only 7.5 metres.
The rate of flow of the water can’t go through the small openings fast
enough, therefore it builds up higher on one side of the gap, making for a
waterfall effect – only horizontally! Essentially,
we’re travelling uphill and downhill on water.
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| Going uphill on water |
After returning to the houseboat, we spent the rest of the
evening relaxing, cruising round the beautiful bays of the area, swimming in
the shark cage with a few visiting Tawny Nurse sharks and enjoying a wonderful
dinner on the top deck as we watched the sun go down, enjoying the company of
our fellow passengers.
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| Swimming with the fishes again. |
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| Some friends coming to join us for dinner |
Our cabin had a huge picture window, and we were able to lie
in bed and watch the stars as we fell asleep, and then the wonderful colours of
the sky in the morning, as the sun rose. Although it was a bit disconcerting to have a different view of the surrounding cliffs than when we went to bed. The pontoons swing on their moorings as the tide comes and goes. No, we hadn't broken free and were drifting towards the rocks!!!
We were up just before 6am, as we had decided to take up the
opportunity of having a sunrise helicopter flight round the bays and across the
falls before breakfast. Neither of us
had been in a helicopter before, and the experience was made all the better as
Trent, our pilot, had taken the doors off for the flight.
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| Taking off in the morning |
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| I was still hanging on at this stage. |
I started the flight clinging on to the side and front bars,
trying to take photos one-handed, but after a couple of minutes, I was like
“whoo-hoo!!!” It was the most wonderful
experience – without doubt!! I couldn’t
keep the smile off my face for hours afterwards, and my hair took all day to
recover too!!
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| Early morning view of the falls |
Then after that, just to add to the morning, we headed back
out on the jet boats, as the tide had turned and was on the way out again. This time it was higher, and we had another
fun half hour playing in the swirling water.
The colours of the early morning sun on the gorge walls was just
beautiful.
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| 8 knots to maintain our position - amazing |
We had a quick bite of breakfast and gathered our gear
together, and sadly, all too soon, the planes arrived to take us back to Derby. The flight back to Derby took the scenic
route, flying out over the Buccaneer Archipelago, a series of over a thousand
small islands off the north-west coast of Western Australia. It is absolutely beautiful, remote country.
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Coming to take us home (sad face). |
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| The Buccaneer Archipelgo |
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| The wilds of the Kimberley burning. |
We landed in Derby around 8.30am on Monday morning and sat
there wondering what we’d do for the rest of the day. Having packed so much excitement into the
first couple of hours, anything else would be sure to be a let-down. I thought I’d have to have a nanny-nap to get
over the adrenalin-rush of the first hours of the day!
But back to reality!
We collected the car and camper from where it had been stored, grabbed a
coffee in town, and then headed out the road towards our next destination –
Broome.
It only took a couple of hours and we had arrived at our
campsite for the next few days. Again,
after a recommendation from Karen, we chose to stay at the Broome Bird
Observatory. This world renowned bird
wonderland sits on the shores of Roebuck Bay, a short distance out of Broome,
and offers limited camping in wonderfully quiet surroundings. I’m not sure if any of you have visited Broome
in peak season, but it’s a bit of a bun-fight and the caravan parks (the only
available camping in town) are chock-a-block, with queues forming outside the
gates every day for the few available vacant sites. This really wasn’t us at all, so the peace and
serenity of the BBO was worth the 20km drive into town when we needed to visit. It does, however, have its fair share of
“birders” staying here; a strange type of folk who take their birds very
seriously and can’t quite understand why we’re here and we don’t!!!
This week has been spent so far, doing a few touristy
things, visiting the sights in town, having a beer at Matso’s, driving up and
taking in Cable Beach, walking out to Gantheaume Point and driving up to Willie
Creek Pearl Farm and the points north of Broome on the Dampier Peninsula. The weather has been picture perfect every
day, 30 degrees or so and the nights have been cool enough to sleep well.
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| Gantheaume Point |
Today, we’ve got the car booked in for an oil change at a
local garage. The plan was always for
Doug to do it himself on the way round, but finding somewhere where he could do
it (certainly not in the pristine environment of the BBO), and then where to
dispose of the waste oil became too hard, so it’s off to visit the mechanic
first thing this morning. I am currently
sitting in the laundrette getting the washing done before we head back up Cable
Beach to spend our last afternoon in Broome sitting, lunching, swimming and
reading on the white sand.
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| Cable Beach - a cliché, but still so beautiful |
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| White sand and clear water |
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| Just drive till you find a bit to yourself. |
Dampier Peninsula and Cape Leveque next!!! It just keeps getting better.
Lol...I know what you mean about the caravan parks. I think it is so tgat tget can get in line at tge next one by 9am! Looks like you are having a great time
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